silks at Class Act Fabrics

     One thing we know from archeologist's digs: the silks valued enough to be used in burial, and even the scraps found in 10th century London middens, were smooth surfaced silks with only an occasional slub.
    I'm sorry to say that I haven't found_yet_ reference to deliberately irregular threads until an 1807 reference to pongee. I've found shantung mentioned in ready-to-wear ads in 1909 and in the May 1904 "The Delineator" magazine. Tussah was listed in a 1954 sewing book but not in a 1949....douppione was listed in 1972 but not 1969.
     Doesn't mean it wasn't there. It may not have been commonly used, or used for a different purpose. I'd love to have more research sources and time to use them. If you have sources to fill out history a bit more, please let me know!

Someone mentioned that they had information that the uneven thread type silk was made in India in the middle ages but I don't have the documentation so I can't recommend it. I have seen documentation that fine silk was imported wrapped in 'raw silk' cloth and the wrappings were sold really cheaply (18th c). I highly doubt this was used as a 'fashion' fabric.

As to which fabric is "period" for what__you really must go by your own research. (They're all beautiful and would make great "modern" clothing ;) Some of the dark jewels and black would be spectacular in "Goth". The taffetas work nicely for all times from medieval through French & Indian, and to Civil War era.

I have fiddled and fussed with the colors on these swatches, trying to match the original fabrics as close as possible. I think that the brain must make up some colors that don't exist in reality. sigh. Email me with questions.
All fabrics are 100% silk unless otherwise labeled.

click on fabric to see larger with details

#001 36" 3.5mm habotai white called gauze but it is a tabby weave... good for veils, partlets, fluttery stuff $3.35/yd MEDIEVAL: 1515 called 'poste'. Probably used in Europe as early as the 1200s and continued with different names through today.	#002 36" 5mm habotai white excellent for veils, some use this for chemises $3.70/yd	#0100 44" silk chiffon floaty, see-through. like fondling a cloud black $9.25/yd
#085 45" silk charmeuse 12.5mm, natural white $11.90/yd	#037 45" 20% silk, 80% rayon medallion brocade cream $14.95/yd now, I've told you it would take a miracle to get a fabric if I sold out. My jobber pulled a miracle!	#0152 55" 100% silk brocade Imported Italian silk brocade The color on this is not right. It should be a true red...not shift from blue-ish to orange-ish. $19.45/yd
#005 60" silk taffeta changeable "pewter" (lt. yellow weft/gray warp) $19.95/yd	#006 60" silk taffeta changeable "emerald" (golden yellow weft/emerald warp) $19.95/yd	#1090 60" silk/wool blend soft and sleek tabby suiting tweed: green, blue, and gold $10.80/yd
>look > #094 frosted daffodil (yellow) 44" silk douppioni changeable yellow warp/white weft $9.00/yd	click on this to see the beautiful way the white warp took the cornflower blue dye and the yellow turned a beautiful green! Compare to the undyed cloth on right side of the picture. The washed and hot water dyed silk has a softer hand and smaller slubs. Think about what red dye would do!! This is FUN silk!	#089 45" Panne velvet 18% silk, 82% rayon luscious flat pile with subtle gleams on the draping gold $13.45/yd
#0155 45" 'light' douppioni a crisp silk that is almost a rustling taffeta except for the small slubs and few thicker threads that make it a douppioni. Gorgeous color Cranberry $9.75/yd	#088 45" Panne velvet 18% silk, 82% rayon luscious flat pile velvet with subtle gleams on the draping. pure Black $13.45/yd	#094 cream 46" shantung like a silk taffeta with a slight slub... $9.75/yd
#0154 44" china silk about 7-8 momme weight, a very light blouse weight, excellent veil weight or a good lining silk. deep red $8.00/yd	#074 45" silk changeable taffeta very fine slubs make what I call a "mild douppioni" but it also has a crisp hand and is light enough to be called 'rustling'. peacock blue weft/dk blue warp $13.50/yd	#073 45" changeable taffeta very fine slubs make it a "mild douppioni" but it also has a crisp hand and is light enough to be called a "rustling" taffeta. emerald weft/dk blue warp $13.50/yd
a most luscious, subtle dragon! lovely wedding gown! #058 45" natural white 100% silk heavy georgette jacquard DRAGONS $18.95/yd	#059 29" red/gold brocade 22%silk/78%rayon DRAGONS $15.95/yd	#0153 54" silk taffeta a rustling 'paper' taffeta but very lightweight. Delicate warp woven stripes of light cream and medium cream $12.45/yd
#0142 54" changeable taffeta Crisp hand, The stripes run with the warp/grain and are satin gold and dark blue. warp: taupe, gold, dk blue weft: gold I would LOVE to see this made up in a Civil War gown. $12.45/yd	#0143 54" changeable taffeta crisp hand, the stripes run with the warp/grain. warp: white, grass green, gold weft: black The gold stripes are satin weave/brocaded. I saw this and exclaimed, "Glitz Coptic tunic!" (grin) I could only get 5 yards. $12.45/yd	#0156 45" changeable douppioni a mild douppioni, tightly woven with smaller slubs. The colors are really dark and rich... in fact, the picture shows more purple than the fabric 'in person' black warp and dk purple weft $10.45/yd
smaller dragons and phoenix alternating on rich red satin #022 29" red/gold brocade 22%silk/78%rayon DRAGONS/phoenix $18.00/yd	#0139 49" silk organza A tabby weave of crisp silk threads, this fabric has white and red warp threads in wide stripes and white weft threads (causing the red to look pink). I pressed a yard or two for this pic. It seems that the pink is woven tighter than the white...which is why the white stripe was getting 'wavy'. only 4 yards left $12.45/yd	#021 29" red/gold brocade 22%silk/78%rayon DRAGONS $18.00/yd also in royal blue, white, and black
#0129 55" bengaline a heavy silk repp weave: a thick weft (filling) thread with fine warp threads makes a heavy rib.....looks like grosgrain. a fine "old" weave! black $15.00/yd	#0130 55" bengaline a heavy silk repp weave: a thick weft (filling) thread with fine warp threads makes a heavy rib.....looks like grosgrain. a fine 'old' weave! The color isn't right....too pink. This is a soft red. $15.00/yd	#020 29" brocade 78% rayon, 22% silk Imperial DRAGONS white with gold $18.00/yd
#0131 54" silk chiffon soft and dreamy dramatic and rich! changeable black and red $10.65/yd	#0113 54" velvet 35%silk, 65%rayon a lovely light and drapey velvet. This color is hard to describe.... it's kind of a dusty purple in some lights and angles but the more I look at it in the light, the more it looks like burgundy. $13.50/yd	a soft, rich "raw" look silk #009 44" matka An even weave that is similar to, but nicer than, noil . cream $10.00/yd
#0108 44" linen warp/silk weft fine tabby weave crisp hand camel (lite brown warp/cream weft) $8.50/yd	#0109 44" silk satin a lovely drape satin weave fuchsia $8.00/yd only 3 1/2 yards left	#0122 45" silk charmeuse 12.5mm luscious silk with a nice drape dusty pink/mauve $9.00/yd
#0115P 44" silk shantung a tabby/plain weave with an occasional tiny slub mildly crisp hand pale pink $9.75/yd	#0138 42" douppioni silk balanced stripes in a sophisticated color and texture blend. black warp, black and cream weft $12.90/yd	#0137 54" changeable douppione really heavy slubs make this a dramatic piece. spice brown warp and an ivory weft champagne? $12.00/yd only 3 yards

#092 100% silk POPLIN also called silk broadcloth in US 44" wide, quality like you find in the best antique skirts and dresses dark navy $9.00/yd	#0114 45" silk charmeuse luscious feel smoky gray $9.50/yd	#099 45" 100% silk heavy poplin really really nice! black $11.50/yd about 2-3 yards left
#082 45" BATISTE 60% silk warp 40% cotton weft natural white $11.90/yd MEDIEVAL PERIOD: could be called mulham ca.1000 or plain rasetti 1570AD or cusacchi 1580 Venice. Other periods as well but I don't have the names. Makes excellent chemises and veils!	#000B 45" china silk shirt weight print reminds me of a Victorian era blouse I saw. dusty green ...sage? $7.95/yd about 6 yds left	#0157 60" basketweave silk suiting lovely hand, NOT a noil. .This jpg is a shade too yellow. a touch of gold and gloss to this pretty tan $11.45/yd




#096 54" 100% silk repp white this is a tabby(plain) weave with a heavy weft thread so there are very big satiny ribs across the fabric. $11.75/yd 8 yards left	#0118 45" silk taffeta 12mm lovely light crisp silk ivory $8.00/yd	#0128 44" "barred" silk suiting tan, cream, brown stripes (bars) across the width. quite spectacular $9.00/yd
#028 45" silk suiting weft stripes of colored taffeta alternating with stripes of thicker cream threads. really nice, crisp hand steel blue and cream stripes $9.00/yd only 2 1/8th yards left $15.00 for all	#0115L 44" silk spun taffeta very pretty medium weight, a bit crisp hand lavender $9.75/yd only about 3 yards left	#0115M 44" silk shantung medium weight, a bit crisp hand pretty orange sherbert $9.75/yd about 5 yards left

page updated 3/29/2008