One thing that will always stymie the re-enactor is the
difference in finishing fabrics between 'now' and 'then'. Since the last quarter
of the 1800s, fleece wool has been treated to a carbonization process to get rid
of the plant debris. This involves dipping in acid. The surface of the wool
fiber is affected as well as the plant material and the care and timing of the
process determines how much it is affected.
(You can get yarn, and I think fabric, too, that hasn't
been carbonized at special stores on the internet. I think you must search for
'natural wool'. )
Another thing that is a real pain is that fabrics
weaves go out of style and come back with a different name. Or the same name is
stuck on a different fabric. So the bengaline of yesteryear (silk warp,
wool weft) has become a pure silk fabric today. The linen/wool fabric today is
more likely to have the linen and wool blended together in one thread than to
have the pure linen warp and pure woolen weft.
The fibers have all been cut to 'machine manageable' lengths so there are no
long fiber worsteds comparable to those of the hand-spun industry. sigh.
That's not all but I think I'll save that for an information page later...when I
get "a round toit".
I've done my best with the colors but it appears that
there are colors seen by the eye that don't exist in reality. sigh.
All fabric is 100% wool unless otherwise labeled.

#162
60" merino/cashmere
lush decadence
old gold (picture color turned out a bit too light)
$15.00/yd
*****
2 1/2 yards left
HISTORICAL: 3/3 twill, 's'warp/'z'weft, 25/16 threads/cm. same weave...a bit less weft,
reversed warp twist; around 1325-1400 and on |
PLEASE CLICK ON THE PICTURES
to enlarge and see the textures and colors better |

#113
60" Scottish twill
70%wool-30%mohair
fuzzy sea green tweed
$14.00/yd
approx. 3 yd left
|
|

#109
60" 97% worsted wool 3% lycra fine twill suiting.
a shade of gray called
Mineral Sage
$7.00/yd
only 3 yards left |

#1020
60" worsted twill
a light gabardine excellent for jackets, tunics, trews, or anything needing
a medium weight wool
olive
$9.00/yd
|

#1083
60" 100% wool twill
a soft lovely hand and rich deep color. This jpg is a bit too blue.
Blue violet
$11.25/yd |

#1039B
60" 100%
worsted wool
very fine twill .....almost a sateen or satinette
brown and off-white stripe
$10.00/yd |

#1050
59" Alpaca
thick, plush and wonderfully soft!
This
fulls in hot water and agitation (approximately 31% shrinkage in the warp and 23% in
the weft.) so dry cleaning is the best idea. (shrunk wool makes wonderful
slippers ;-)
mint on one side, pale mint on other
$18.00/yd |

#1084
59" 100% wool
a luscious woolen with a lovely hand and wonderful feel. This looks fulled
but isn't really...the weft will unravel.
The darned color won't come true though... this is a nice
medium brown
with NO blue in it.
$10.20/yd
|

#1039 R
60" 100% worsted wool
very fine twill....almost a sateen or satinette
red and olive stripe
of the same width as #1039B above.
$10.00/yd |

#1087
60" 100% wool
a soft tabby suiting with a lovely tweedy-look
warm brown/rusty
$10.20/yd |

#1100
58" 85% wool, 15% poly
tabby flannel
This is a very different fabric than I've had before. It's surface has been
calendared so that whatever nap there was has been flattened. The fabric is
more crisp and smooth, perfect for a light jacket.
The color is spectacular (for best color look at the bottom of the jpg)
heather rose-pink and lavender
$9.25/yd |

#1090
60" wool/silk blend
soft and sleek tabby suiting
tweed: flecked with green, blue, and gold
$10.80/yd |

#184
59" 100% wool
a lovely twill!
made in England
modern known as gabardine,
fits definition of covert cloth
grays
$13.00/yd |

#1066
60" fine twill suiting.
almost a sateen finish, I'd venture a guess that this could be Venetian
Cloth.
a weave of browns with a gray tone
$8.00/yd
only 4 yards left |
|

#1081
60" 100% worsted wool
UNIFORM TWILL
I know...there's no such 'name'. But this is the navy blue heavy twill used
for 'dress blues'. How do I know? The tag attached to it directs it the
Marine Corp Depot and the color number is
"Army Blue 150"
also: 16 oz. type III mothproofed.
(I love my jobber!) heavier than the dress greens I wore in
1980.
Navy Blue
$11.00/yd |

#1095
58" 90% wool, 10% nylon
a very nice coating with a lovely hand. Twill weave is visible on one side
while other is a lush fulled surface. Makes great cartridge pleats!
deeper Red with a cool blue tone. $15.00/yd |

#172
54" 80%wool, 20%nylon
heavy Melton
lovely feel. tiny give in weft would make nice riding coat
Black
and this one doesn't want to show correctly either.
$10.50/yd
only about 5 1/2 yards left |

#111
60" wool/silk blend twill
a luscious sleek shepherd check wool with grays, blues, browns. I'm sorry to
say there's only about 3.5 yards left and there's a warp thread flaw about
8" in from one selvedge. Because of this the price is $8.00/yd or
$25.00 for the piece
|

#138
60" fine 100% worsted wool light rust
$7.00/yd
*****
HISTORICAL: 2/2 twill, both 's'twist, 30/22 threads/cm weft # a bit
low but possible for 1401-1450 , excellent for 1800s |

#101
60" worsted tabby suiting with about 15% lycra with stretch in both
weft and warp!
Perfect
for summer suits and slacks.
Also excellent for dance costumes.
tan
$7.00/yd |
|

#192
29" wide Harris Tweed
from the Isle of Lewis
a window pane check in
dark gray, browns, green
$10.00/yd
3 yards left |

#1027
29" wide Harris Tweed
from the Isle of Lewis herringbone in
grays
$10.00/yd
7 yards left |

#1048
58" 100% wool twill plaid
about 10 oz.
black and cream with a white rail
$11.00/yd |
| |
|
|

#1029
60" wool/camel
twill "fuzzy"(skirt)
camel tan
$8.50/yd
3 1/2 yards left |

#1072
60" plain weave worsted
"new gold"
from Uruguay
22threads/warp, 21 threads/weft
hot wash & dryer shrinkage: 3% warp; 4% weft
$8.00/yd |

#1085
59" 100% wool
Imported Italian wool
a beautiful piece with a light gray satin weave on one side and a darker
gray twill on the other
(from a very exclusive men's suiting company, my jobber said)
$10.70/yd
|

#1003
62" twill, light weight flannel, crisp hand,
lovely for SUITING
very special piece
light gray
$8.00/yd |

#1101
62" 85% wool 15% poly
a soft twill woolen, lightweight with a soft hand, very nice suit or light
jacket weight, or cape....
warp is heathery olive greens,
weft is dark pink..... makes a striking warm heather-rose
$9.50/yd |

#190
62" twill, brushed "doeskin"... a bit heavier than a light-weight flannel.
Soft and luscious. A very dark navy that looks almost black.
dark navy
$11.00/yd |
|
#1061
59" 100% superfine worsted
with lycra
tabby weave summer suiting
tan
$8.00/yd |

#1062
59" 100% superfine worsted
with lycra
tabby weave summer suiting
cold chocolate milk
brown
$8.00/yd approx. 7 yards left |

#1063
60" 100% superfine worsted
with lycra
tabby weave summer suiting
dark charcoal with a bit of blue tint
$8.00/yd |
|
#1064
59" 100% superfine worsted
with lycra
tabby weave summer suiting
mixed grays
$8.00/yd |

#1016
57" worsted wool with 2% lycra
summer weight SUITING
tabby weave
rich
chocolate
$7.00/yd
2 yards left |
#1082
60" 100% wool
lovely soft subtle basketweave suiting, feels sublime
tweedy gray
$9.70/yd |
|

#1086
100% wool soft gabardine
lovely suiting weight in a gorgeous spruce green!
or perhaps forest green?
$9.00/yd
|

#1073
59" 100% wool twill , lightly brushed
deep blue
hot wash shrinkage: 4% warp;
9% weft
$9.50/yd approx. 2 1/2 yd left |

#1089
100% soft wool gabardine
lovely suiting weight
I worked an hour on this picture: I have 'Susie's' black skirt, white
bodice, natural/creamy linen backdrop and some dark blue velveteen on the
left. This is the best I can do to show this
beautiful dark teal blue
$9.00/yd |
#1094
60" worsted, superfine, fancy twill weave
very lightweight, translucent
a lot like #149 but no crepe.
Would make a lovely swing jacket or 1930-40s loose dress over a slim slip!
off-white
$11.00/yd
approx. 8 1/2 yd left
|

#1097
58" 85% wool, 15% nylon
soft, fluffy, lightweight twill with a wonderful nap surface.
Wonderful for a coat or a cape!
Feels great!
soft Copenhagen blue
$9.00/yd |
#166
60' wool/cashmere blend
dreamy soft hand and dreamy soft color
dove gray$12.50/yd
approx. 3 yd left
|

#1038P
56" 100% worsted wool satin
dusty pink
modernly called sateen,
warp-faced satin weave, possibly similar to the worsted satinette of 1794 or
of late 1500s
$11.00/yd |

#1038F
59" 100% worsted wool satin
fuchsia pink
modernly called sateen
warp-faced satin weave, possibly similar to the worsted satinette of 1794
$11.00/yd
approx. 5 yds left |

#1075
60" 100% worsted wool twill
deep red
$9.00/yd. approx. 2 1/2 yds left |

#110
60" worsted tabby
a superfine suiting from a top men's suiting company. Understated woven
checks in charcoal grays.
$7.00/yd |

there is a little sparkle in the threads that makes this unsuitable for authentic
kilt/renaissance use
#117
60" twill 99%worsted/1%nylon?
(was labeled 100% wool)
black/cream faux Menzies tartan
$9.00/yd
SALE $ 4.00/YD |

#1102
60" 80% wool 20% poly
a fine twill weave with a brushed and calendared face, a bit crisp hand. The
back shows the twill weave and a lighter color wine while the face has the
sleek pressed nap that is a very dark wine/black. Gorgeous!!
warp is black; weft is dark wine
$8.50/yd |
|

#1091
60" woolen twill flannel
a fine, soft, smooth finish in a pretty 'tweedy' look with very subdued
windowpane.
Grays with brown & blue 'panes'
$9.00/yd
|

#1092
58" woolen twill
a soft slightly loose weave woolen
in a large twill. Would make a lovely swing jacket or soft constructed suit.
Or a warm cloak.
Black
$9.50/yd |

#1093
61" worsted suiting, very fine broken twill weave, with a slight shine
finish on the face. Gorgeous!
fine suiting.!
Dark Blue
$ 9.50/yd |

#170
60" worsted wool
a TRUE doublecloth!! (two cloths woven at the same time and having some of the threads
shared by each of the two layers. A light, fluffy worsted wool.
medium grays
$9.25/yd
3 1/2 yards left |

#157
59" twill with lush nap on one side
wool/camel hair blend
checked browns/black
$12.00/ydabout 3 yards left |

#1088
60" 100% wool
Cavalry Twill,
also called: covert cloth, whipcord.
Cavalry twill is a very strong, tightly woven and dense worsted wool that is used
for things that take hard wear: uniforms, coats, riding pants, sportswear,
etc. It is smooth on one side, the other is a steep twill with a prominent twill wale. Like all
uniform wools, this has been steamed in it's finishing.
tan
$12.45/yd |

#1017
60" 97% worsted w/3% lycra in weft only
twill weave makes great slacks and suiting, cotehardies, or slim dresses
copper
$8.25/yd
*****
HISTORICAL: lycra makes it unusable for 'authenticity'. 2/2 twill, Look and hand same as
appropriate worsted twills for 1251-1400 and on |

#179
60" worsted sateen
also called Venetian Cloth
a luscious suiting with browns and blue and other furtive colors woven
together.
browns with blue hint
$8.25/yd
|
#1015
Navy
same hand as #1017 to the far left.
60" worsted 2/2 twill with 2-3% lycra in the weft. The lycra has become a "fashion
plus" item in high end fabrics because it helps keep the fabric from bagging at the
knees and (ahem) and other places where clothing tends to sag. You never know its there to
look at the fabric or clothing.
Navy
$8.25/yd
***** 1 1/2 yards left
same historical data as 1017 |

#125
60" 70% wool 30% nylon
broken twill woolen coating
large plaid in
red, green, and goldThink picnic blanket or bulky jacket.
$7.50/yd
|

#149
60" lightly creped worsted twill
translucent!
cream
with 2-3% lycra
(for fabric fit and recovery)
great for medieval hosen, possibly Roman? Would make a lovely modern loose
shirt or light tunic top!
$11.50/yd |
1038C
62" 100% worsted wool
copper
very fine twill
$10.00/yd
approx. 1.5 yds left
(what can you do with 1.5 yards of fine, wide twill? short slacks? unlined
jacket?)
|
|
#1099
59" 100% woolen
Very expensive couture coating of bulky yarns with nap face! Plush and soft
olive warp, golden browns weft
heather gold
$15.25/yd |
#1096
58" 85% wool, 15% nylon coating,
soft, fluffy, lightweight twill with a wonderful thick nap surface.
Wonderful for a coat or a cape!
Feels great!
Beige
$9.00/yd
|
#1098
59" 85% wool, 15% nylon
Thick, heavy, gorgeous coating with a nap on the face. I'd call this a
medieval broadcloth according to their description.
rich Burgundy
$15.25/yd |