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    contact me at:

    Linda Learn
    Class Act Fabrics
    PO Box 307
    Tunkhannock,PA
     18657-0307
    (570) 836-2318
  email me at
Linda (at) classactfabrics (dot) com

Here's a neat color site.
I think the colors are
truest of all the color
lists out there:
www.ibdguy.com/colors.shtml
 

       Class Act Fabrics .....Wools...
Fabricmonger to the Crowns of the West Kingdom, SCA

PENNSIC WAR TIME IS APPROACHING!

This means that, starting July 16th, I will be loading things in my trailer and getting ready to haul them out to Coopers Campground to my little brown Slavic fabric store on wheels.

This year I will be closing down Class Act Fabrics on July 20th and will be re-opening it on Aug 20th. Pennsic is  a week earlier starting this year and I'm getting slower ;)  I will not be near a computer during this time so I won't be able to answer emails. Please wait until after Aug 15th to email me.

If you are going to the Pennsic War and want me to bring something specific for you, please email me before July 20th or as soon as possible so I can have it packed for you.

 

    Pure wool fabric is getting harder to come by. And fabrics labeled 100% wool, or 100% cotton, or 100% linen nowadays sometimes have a smidgen of lycra in them. sigh.
I do my best to get 'unadulterated' fabrics for my historical costumers but the costs of those, when I can find them, are getting very, very high.  And some wools are just so beautiful even though they have 5-15% nylon or polyester in them. Unless you are going to be entering a '100% wool contest', or be in a juried encampment, or are an extreme authenticity police person, well.... sometimes that little bit of nylon or poly doesn't hurt. Actually, nylon is used in most coatings now for stability: elbows budge less, knees don't sag, coats hold their shape longer....and 'usually' (watch that disclaimer) the wool doesn't shrink or doesn't shrink more than 3-4% if you don't put it in the dryer. (always test before you sew, and pre-treat it the way you will be cleaning it afterwards because the surface will sure as shootin' change)
    So, if isn't really mandatory that you use 100% pure wool, check out the blends.

      Medieval textiles in London excavations have  been found with thread counts comparable to today's wools: coarse cloth at 7 warp threads/8 weft threads per centimeter, fine cloth with 25 warp/36 weft per cm, comparable to merino, and everything in between; twill and tabby weaves, and checked, solid, striped and barred (rays) patterns created by both color and weave structure; mixed cloth of different fibers........just like what's on the market now!

    One thing that will always stymie the re-enactor is the difference in finishing fabrics between 'now' and 'then'. Since the last quarter of the 1800s, fleece wool has been treated to a carbonization process to get rid of the plant debris. This involves dipping in acid. The surface of the wool fiber is affected as well as the plant material and the care and timing of the process determines how much it is affected.
     (You can get yarn, and I think fabric, too, that hasn't been carbonized at special stores on the internet. I think you must search for 'natural wool'. )
     Another thing that is a real pain is that fabrics weaves go out of style and come back with a different name. Or the same name is stuck on a  different fabric. So the bengaline of yesteryear (silk warp, wool weft) has become a pure silk fabric today. The linen/wool fabric today is more likely to have the linen and wool blended together in one thread than to have the pure linen warp and pure woolen weft.
The fibers have all been cut to 'machine manageable' lengths so there are no long fiber worsteds comparable to those of the hand-spun industry. sigh.  That's not all but I think I'll save that for an information page later...when I get "a round toit".

    I've done my best with the colors but it appears that there are colors seen by the eye that don't exist in reality. sigh.

All fabric is 100% wool unless otherwise labeled.



click on fabric picture to enlarge for details (colors show best when enlarged)

 

PLEASE CLICK ON THE PICTURES
to enlarge and see the textures and colors better



#109
60"  97% worsted wool 3% lycra fine worsted twill suiting.
a shade of gray called
Mineral Sage
$7.00/yd
only 3 yards left
$7.00/yd


#1112
60" woolen coating
A magnificent, luscious, soft wool that you want to pet forever. I haven't had a chance to test it or ask my jobber about the content because he sent it to me in the middle of War  (I love my jobber;-)  This is a medium tending to heavy weight but quite warm coating.
warm Brown

$14.25/yd

I had this one at Pennsic but no sample washed.

#1106
58" 100% woolen
From Carleton Woolen Mills which closed last year.
A beautiful wool. I haven't  washed a piece in cold water yet but check the shrinkage rates of the other Carleton woolens and you can get an idea.
Camel

$13.45/yd


#1039B
60" 100% worsted wool
very fine twill satin-weave .....almost a sateen or satinette
brown and off-white stripe
 
$10.00/yd


#1050
59" Alpaca
thick, plush and wonderfully soft!
This fulls in hot water and agitation (approximately 31% shrinkage in the warp and 23% in the weft.) so dry cleaning is the best idea. (the fulled wool makes wonderful slippers and insoles ;-)
MINT on one side, PALE MINT on other side
$18.00/yd

I had this one at Pennsic too but no sample washed.

#1110
58" 100% woolen
heavy flannel
From Carleton Woolen Mills which closed last year.
A beautiful soft wool. I haven't washed a piece in cold water yet but check the other Carleton woolens and you can get an idea.
 beautiful mixture of grays all blended together.
Gray

$13.45/yd

I had this soft navy wool at  PENNSIC

#1108
58" 100% woolen
From Carleton Woolen Mills which closed last year.
A beautiful soft wool. When I washed a piece in cold water and hung it to dry it had 7% shrinkage in the warp and 6% in the weft. This could be from the way I hung it to dry.
Navy

$13.45/yd

I had this soft black wool at PENNSIC

#1107
58" 100% woolen
From Carleton Woolen Mills which closed last year.
A beautiful soft wool. When I washed a piece in cold water and hung it to dry it had 1% shrinkage in the warp and 4% in the weft. This could be from the way I hung it to dry.
Black

$13.45/yd

I had this wool at
PENNSIC

#1100
58"    85% wool, 15% poly
tabby flannel
Surface has been calendared for a crisp and smooth flatness perfect for a structured light jacket. Cool water wash makes it into a lovely soft flannel (about 3% shrinkage).
The color is spectacular (for best color look at the bottom of the jpg)
heathery
Rose-Pink and Lavender

$9.25/yd

I had this emerald green at  PENNSIC

#1104
58" 100% woolen
From Carleton Woolen Mills which closed last year.
A beautiful soft wool. When I washed a piece in cold water and hung it to dry it had 3% shrinkage in the warp and 14% in the weft. This could be from the way I hung it to dry.
Emerald green

$13.45/yd


#184
59" 100%  wool
a lovely twill!
made in England for Huddlesfield!
modern known as gabardine,
fits definition of covert cloth
grays
$13.00/yd

about 3 yards left


#1066
60"  100% wool
 fine satin-weave twill suiting.
almost a sateen finish, I'd venture a guess that this could be Venetian Cloth.
lovely browns with a gray tone
$8.00/yd
about 4 yards left


#1081
60" 100% worsted wool
UNIFORM TWILL
I know...there's no such 'name'. But this is the navy blue, heavy twill used for 'dress blues'. How do I know? The tag attached to it directs it the Marine Corp Depot and the color number is       "Army Blue 150"
also: 16 oz. type III mothproofed.
(I love my jobber!)

heavier than the dress greens I wore in 1980.
Navy Blue
$11.00/yd

I had this red coating at PENNSIC

#1095
58" 90% wool, 10% nylon
a very nice coating with a lovely hand. Twill weave is visible on one side while other is a lush fulled surface. Makes great cartridge pleats!
(shrinkage with HOT water about 4% weft, 10% warp) when preshrunk makes a great Florentine beretto!
deeper Red with a cool blue tone.
$15.00/yd

I had this cranberry wool at  PENNSIC

#1109
58" 100% woolen
From Carleton Woolen Mills which closed last year.
A beautiful soft wool. When I washed a piece in cold water and hung it to dry it had 6% shrinkage in the warp  and 11% in the weft. This could be from the way I hung it.
Cranberry
(this picture is washed out...should be a bit warmer)
$13.45/yd
 


#111
60" wool/silk blend twill
a luscious sleek shepherd check wool with grays, blues, browns. I'm sorry to say there's only about 3.5 yards left and there's a warp thread flaw about 8" in from one selvedge (that makes it a 52" wide fabric). Because of this the price is $8.00/yd  or
$25.00 for the piece
 

 


#101
60" worsted wool tabby suiting with  lycra .... stretch in both weft and warp! Tropical weight.
Perfect for summer suits and slacks..
tan
$7.00/yd


#192
29" wide 100% wool
 Harris Tweed
from the Isle of Lewis
a window pane check in
dark gray, browns, green

$10.00/yd
3 yards left


#1027
29" wide 100% wool
 Harris Tweed
from the Isle of Lewis herringbone in
grays
$10.00/yd
2-3 yards left


#1048
58" 100% wool twill plaid
about 10 oz.
black and cream with a white rail
$11.00/yd


#1122
59" 100% woolen coating
HEAVY, thick, dense, WONDERFUL!  The face of this woolen has a nap that has been calendared flat; the reverse is a twill that looks like whip cord.
It could keep you warm in a blizzard! The color is a tweedy Charcoal gray
$15.25/yd

#1121
60" 100% wool twill
Huddlesfield cavalry twill!
A wonderful piece uniform weight twill. A tiny bit lighter than the Marine uniform twill, in weight and color. I wish someone would compare this to Civil War uniform twill for me because it looks a lot like the one I saw in the Everhart Museum several years ago.
Dark Blue
$10.55/yd


#1120
59" 100% wool twill gabardine from Huddlesfield
a wonderful gabardine, solid medium weight, classic, gorgeous.
This fits the definition of covert cloth also.
Taupe
(that's kind of a cool tan color)
$10.55/yd

#1103
60" 100% wool
Imported Italian flannel suiting
Beautiful light flannel. This is one I washed in cold water (hung dry)to see what it would do. Shrinkage was about 3-4% for me. It feels wonderful.
It is a soft subtle color...a
 'greeny-gray'

$11.20/yd

 

I got this shipped to me at Pennsic during the second week.

#1113
60" 100% wool
Worsted twill light gabardine. (twill on one side and very even on the other) A perfect weight for slacks, light jacket, tunic, cotehardie, and a lovely red!
(AEthelmearc red <G>)

Red
$12.50/yd


#1085
59" 100% wool
Imported Italian wool suiting
a beautiful piece with a light gray satin weave on one side and a darker gray twill on the other
(from a very exclusive men's suiting company, my jobber said) Gorgeous!
light gray

$10.70/yd

 

#1061
59" 100% superfine worsted
with lycra, tropical weight
tabby weave suiting
tan
$8.00/yd

#1064
59" 100% superfine worsted
with lycra
tabby weave tropical weight suiting
mixed grays
$8.00/yd


#110
60" 100% wool worsted tabby
a superfine suiting from a top men's suiting company. Understated woven checks in charcoal grays.
$7.00/yd

about 6 yards left


#1062
59" 100% superfine worsted
with lycra
tabby weave suiting
cold chocolate milk brown
$8.00/yd

approx. 7 yards left


#1063
60" 100% superfine worsted
with lycra
tabby weave summer suiting
dark charcoal with a bit of blue tint
$8.00/yd


#1115
60" 100% worsted wool
 twill light gabardine. Very nice weight for suits and slacks, lined jackets, tunics, coathardies.
Nice hand.
Pale Blue
$9.70/yd


#1016
57" worsted wool with 2% lycra
tabby weave suiting
rich chocolate
$7.00/yd
2 yards left

#1116
60" 100% worsted wool twill
light gabardine. Very nice weight for suits and slacks, lined jackets, tunics, cotehardies, etc.
Nice hand.
(looks nice with pale blue)
Lilac..almost lavender

$9.70/yd

I can't seem to get this color to come out at all. It turns too gray in the pictures. It might be called a dark periwinkle as well as lavender.


#1117
58" 100% worsted wool twill
 gabardine. Very nice weight for suits and slacks, lined jackets, tunics, cotehardies, etc.Nice hand. This is the color of the ripest red raspberry...not the bright red that we hope to get before the birds do, but the slightly dusky red that is the sweetest and ripest you can get. Or you can call it red-violet I guess.
Ripe Red Raspberry
$9.70/yd


#1073
59" 100% wool twill , lightly brushed
deep blue
hot wash shrinkage: 4% warp;
9% weft
$9.50/yd

approx. 2 1/2 yd left

#1119
58" 100% woolen
A soft woolen with a herringbone twill weave. Very nice for suits and jackets. Also nice as a tunic dress or cotehardie.  The soft color blue and the soft hand make me think of soft blue skies with wisps of clouds. VERY pretty.
Light Blue
$10.50/yd

 

#1127
60" 100% wool twill gabardine
medium weight, drapey, very very nice!
Dark Blue
$9.95/yd
#1128
60" 100% wool twill gabardine
medium weight, drapey, very very nice!
Plum
$9.95/yd

I had this one at Pennsic and sold out of it there.

#1105
58" 100% woolen twill
From Carleton Woolen Mills which closed last year.
A beautiful soft wool. When I washed a piece in cold water and hung it to dry it had 6-8% shrinkage in the warp  and 11% in the weft. This could be from the way I hung it.This has a bit less blue in it than the jpeg shows. It would make a gorgeous lined jacket. Or cloak!
Forest Green
$13.45/yd


#1038F
59" 100% worsted wool satin
modernly called sateen
warp-faced satin weave, possibly similar to the worsted satinette of 1794
Fuchsia Pink
$11.00/yd


approx. 5 yds left

#1129
60" 100% wool gabardine
medium weight, drapey, very very nice!
Peacock/Teal
$9.95/yd


 


there is a little sparkle in the threads that makes this unsuitable for authentic kilt/renaissance use
#117
60" twill 99%worsted/1%nylon?
(was labeled 100% wool)
black/cream faux Menzies tartan
$9.00/yd
SALE  $ 4.00/YD

#1118
60" 100% wool crepe
A lovely hand and drape and a luscious rich color.
Wool crepe makes very nice suits that move with you and don't wrinkle as much as other fabrics.
Burgundy
$9.95/yd


#1091
60"  100% twill woolen flannel suiting
a fine, soft, smooth finish in a pretty 'tweedy' look with very subdued windowpane.
Grays with brown & blue 'panes'
$9.00/yd
 


#1114
60" 100% woolen twill light gabardine. This would make a good light suiting, tunic, cotehardie, etc.

But let me talk about the color. I hope to be able to catch this in the jpeg....I call this heathered sunshine.  It is a bit warmer than a pale daffodil and full of soft hints of color that make me think of dancing sunshine and soft fuzzy animals.
Heathered Sunshine
$10.25/yd


#1093
61" 100% worsted wool suiting, very fine broken twill weave, with a slight shine finish on the face. Gorgeous!
 fine suiting.!
Dark Blue
$ 9.50/yd

 


#157
59" 100% wool twill with lush nap on one side
wool/camel hair blend
checked browns/black
$12.00/yd

about 2 1/2 yards left
$25.00 the piece

 


#1017
60"   97% worsted w/3% lycra in weft only 
twill weave makes great slacks and suiting, cotehardies, or  slim dresses
copper
$8.25/yd
*****
HISTORICAL: lycra makes it unusable for 'authenticity'. 2/2 twill, Look and hand same as appropriate worsted twills for 1251-1400 and on


#179
60" 100% worsted wool sateen

a luscious suiting with browns and blue and other furtive colors woven together.
browns with blue hint
$8.25/yd
about 2 1/2 yards left

#1015
same hand as #1017 to the far left.
60" worsted 2/2 twill suiting with 2-3% lycra in the weft. The lycra has become a "fashion plus" item in high end fabrics because it helps keep the fabric from bagging at the knees and (ahem) and other places where clothing tends to sag. You never know its there to look at the fabric or clothing.
Navy
$8.25/yd
*****

1 1/2 yards left
$10.00 the piece
 


#125
60" 70% wool 30% nylon
broken twill woolen coating
large plaid in
red, green, and gold

Think picnic blanket or bulky jacket.
about 3 1/2 yards left
$7.50/yd
SALE $5.00/YD...$15 the piece

 


#1096
58" 85% wool, 15% nylon coating,
soft, fluffy, lightweight twill with a wonderful thick nap surface.
Wonderful for a coat or a cape!
Feels great!
Beige
about 5% shrinkage
$9.00/yd
1038C
62" 100% worsted wool
copper
very fine twill
$10.00/yd
approx. 1.5 yds left
(what can you do with 1.5 yards of fine, wide twill? short slacks? unlined jacket?)

$12.00 the piece


#1125
60" 100% woolen twill
flannel weight  Some of the last of Burlington. (sigh) This is a lovely soft woolen twill. It's close to a flannel although the twill weave is still a bit visible.
So nice, so soft. So long, Burlington.
Rich Red
$10.95/yd

#1126
60" 100% woolen twill.
flannel weight  Some of the last of Burlington. (sigh) This is a lovely soft woolen twill. It's close to a flannel although the twill weave is still a bit visible.
So nice, so soft. So long, Burlington.
Winter White
$10.95/yd
 

#1124
60" 100% woolen twill.
flannel weight  Some of the last of Burlington. (sigh) This is a lovely soft woolen twill. It's close to a flannel although the twill weave is still a bit visible.
So nice, so soft. So long, Burlington.
Royal Blue
$10.95/yd

page updated 2/22/2009