One thing we know from archeologist’s digs: the silks valued enough to be used in burial, and even the scraps found in 10th century London middens, were smooth surfaced silks with only an occasional slub.
I’m sorry to say that I haven’t found_yet_ reference to deliberately irregular threads until an 1807 reference to pongee. I’ve found shantung mentioned in ready-to-wear ads in 1909 and in the May 1904 “The Delineator” magazine. Tussah was listed in a 1954 sewing book but not in a 1949….douppione was listed in 1972 but not 1969.
Doesn’t mean it wasn’t there. It may not have been commonly used, or used for a different purpose. I’d love to have more research sources and time to use them. If you have sources to fill out history a bit more, please let me know!

Someone mentioned that they had information that the uneven thread type silk was made in India in the middle ages but I don’t have the documentation so I can’t recommend it. I have seen documentation that fine silk was imported wrapped in ‘raw silk’ cloth and the wrappings were sold really cheaply (18th c). I highly doubt this was used as a ‘fashion’ fabric.

As to which fabric is “period” for what__you really must go by your own research. (They’re all beautiful and would make great “modern” clothing 😉 Some of the dark jewels and black would be spectacular in “Goth”.

I have fiddled and fussed with the colors on these swatches, trying to match the original fabrics as close as possible. I think that the brain must make up some colors that don’t exist in reality. sigh. Email me with questions.
All fabrics are 100% silk unless otherwise labeled.